Friday, July 3, 2015

C9 5 Day Automatic Chronometer Anniversary Model

From Christopher Ward -

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

Celebrating the 1 year anniversary of the launch of the C9 5 Day Automatic Chronometer in a stunning and stylish green.

Here are the stats -

·In-house Calibre SH21 automatic movement (100% Swiss made) by Johannes Jahnke
·COSC certified chronometer
·Twin barrel construction in a series connection
·120 hour power reserve
·31 jewels
·Date display at 3 o’clock
·Full tungsten automatic rotor with ball bearings
·Continuous central second
·Stop-second hacking mechanism
·Galvanic sun-ray one-piece metal dial with raised nickel indexes and nickel hands
·Hand finished, surgical grade, stainless steel case and crown
·Museum-grade sapphire crystal with AR08 anti-reflective coating
·Screw-down transparent case back with full diameter AR08 anti-reflective sapphire crystal
·Embossed alligator pattern Italian leather (green) with Bader deployment
·Limited Edition of 100
·Luxury presentation case and owner’s handbook
·Diameter: 43mm
·Height: 13.45mm
·Calibre: SH21 automatic
·Vibrations: 28.800 vph
·Case: 316L stainless steel
·Water resistance: 5 bar
·Strap width: 22mm
 Priced at $1,895 US

A Brand Ambassador I Can Get Behind - Thank You Hublot!

Regular readers are aware of my sometimes less-than-enthusiastic response to brand ambassadors.  Having said that - leave it to Hublot to do something that makes me PRAISE THEM for doing something positive!  I will say it simply like this - if I could afford it I would go straight out and buy a Big Bang RIGHT NOW because they have shown all of us something with this, and they are to be thanked and applauded!

I am not generally one to gush, but I am gushing!  THANK YOU HUBLOT!

Lang Lang is many things - a world famous musician, symbol to Chinese people around the world - and (most importantly to me) a strong supporter in the fight to end the Ivory trade and protect elephants.  So, first the "Tempus Fugit" required Public Service Announcement - and then completely unfiltered, Hublot's press release regarding Lang Lang's latest concert endeavors - spoiler alert - Hublot is doing something VERY, VERY POSITIVE!

Courtesy of Hublot

And because it is so important - I am putting the "happy ending" right here so you bear it in mind:

This concert also marks Hublot's support for Lang Lang‟s work to prevent illegal trading in ivory from elephant tusk. The young prodigy is committed to supporting the Ivory Free campaign with Wild Aid, The African Wildlife Foundation and Save the Elephants. Hublot is backing the cause for two months starting in July by donating part of the profit from its St- Tropez store. 

Apologies in advance, I have yet to master the "embedding science" to make the frame fit without spilling into the side banner ads!

And now onto Lang Lang's summer concert events courtesy of Hublot -


Summer getaways with Lang Lang in Porto Cervo & St Tropez
Summer has just begun. The diaries of the Swiss watchmaker and the talented pianist are booked up. Stopping off from his world tourwith more than 80 dates from Singapore to London via San FranciscoLang Lang gave two pop-up concerts in two temporary summer sites. 30 minutes of improvisation for moments that will last forever.

Courtesy of Hublot

Like a real rock star, the 32 year old virtuoso has conquered the word of music in its broadest sense. With his trendy look, his talent and his generosity, he transcends classical music and blends every tempo. His renowned duos with the Four Horsemen from Metallica, Jazzman Herbie Hancock or the Tenor Placido Domingo have demonstrated his boundless mastery of the ivories and the ease with which he permanently reinvents himself. His spontaneous music is built from improvisations. Lang Lang is audacious and sets out to surprise. No repertoire is beyond him. This on stage phenomenon has followed an atypical route to stardom and he has a sparkling and generous personality whose aura melds perfectly with the Hublot philosophy.
The internationally renowned prodigy did not shrink back from adding to the 80 tour dates that already fill his diary. Two locations, two audiences and two improvised repertoires for two exclusive concerts. His passion makes the young man tireless. He has boundless energy and takes pleasure in sharing his music and emotions. It would appear that he has more in common with Hublot than first meets the eye.
Musical summer getaways

The Mediterranean coast 

PORTO CERVOJuly 1, 2015
The young pianist gave an original and unique private concert in Harrods‟ Village in the heart of the Porto Cervo Marina. Lang Lang improvised on stage for 30 minutes drawing his inspiration from his surroundings. An exclusive concert on the sidelines of his world tour, to which 50 friends and elected representatives were invited by Hublot.

Lang Lang came to the Emerald Coast by boat. Like many artists, the virtuoso has his rituals and his cherished items; he never performs without his own piano, a Steinway, and his watch, a Big Bang Carbon Bezel Baguette Diamonds.

The fact he was there on that day was not down to chance. A major event occurred on July 1, the official inauguration of the Hublot summer store in the Harrodsvillage at Porto Cervo, of which Hublot is a partner. Ten golden fingers cut the ribbon. 

ST TROPEZ July 2, 2015
600 km and a few hours later, the pianist landed in St Tropez,and was welcomed by Jean- Claude Biver, Chairman of Hublot and Chairman of LVMH Watches Division. After a warm welcome in keeping with Hublot‟s style, all the guests went to Club 55 to celebrate his birthday.
Early in the evening, Lang Lang was expected in the heart of the Citadelle. He performed in the famous Place des Lices at White 1921, a pop-up boutique hotel. The virtuoso gave free reign to his imagination for 30 minutes of improvisation.

This concert also marks Hublot‟s support for Lang Lang‟s work to prevent illegal trading in ivory from elephant tusk. The young prodigy is committed to supporting the Ivory Free campaign with Wild Aid, The African Wildlife Foundation and Save the Elephants. Hublot is backing the cause for two months starting in July by donating part of the profit from its St- Tropez store. 

Thursday, July 2, 2015

Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées

From Vacheron Constantin for ONLY WATCH -
Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Here's the info, direct and unfiltered from Geneva -

                            Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées for Only Watch 2015 
                                                  When engraving morphs into sculpture 

At the occasion of the charity event Only Watch 2015 that will take place on November 7th in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin renews its support with a unique Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées timepiece, beautified by an enamelled red ring. This creation links two worlds that evolved in similar ways in the late 19th century: architecture and watchmaking. Based on one of the stellar in- house movements, Calibre 4400, this sculptural work with its airy, transparent and finely arched construction exalting the art of openworking vividly evokes the large European railway stations symbolising the golden age of the industrial revolution. The engraver’s technique is reinvented to resemble that of the sculptor, revealing fascinating light effects conveyed through a three- dimensional architecture enhanced by another artistic craft: that of Grand Feu enamelling. 

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

An historical quest
While the first entirely openworked Vacheron Constantin calibre appeared in 1924, the Manufacture was a pioneer in this field of stylistic research, since the first watch produced by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755 already featured an openworked and engraved balance-cock. Over the following years, the Manufacture relentlessly pursued this quest for mechanical transparency, as it produced movements comprising ever more finely fashioned components. After pocket-watches, it began producing openworked movements for wristwatches as of the 1960s, constantly pushing the boundaries of its art by openworking such complicated calibres as minute repeaters, perpetual calendar and tourbillons including in ultra-thin variations.

Time has passed, yet the thirst for creative challenges remains as strong as ever. Witness the new release by the Manufacture of a splendid mechanical work evoking the large glass domed roofs of historical railway stations, supported by Gothic-inspired ribbed vaults. This impressive artistry is expressed through stunning hand-engraved work resembling the technique of sculpture and orchestrated by a symphony of curves forming a three-dimensional architecture literally flooded with light. 

New milestones in the art of engraving
Openworking a movement is a demanding art, since it involves hollowing out the mechanical parts as much as possible, while being careful not to impair the smooth running of the watch. Watchmakers generally start with a solid existing calibre on which they undertake a lengthy process involving conceptualisation, design and modelling, in order to weave the magic of openworking. This unique piece Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées is no exception to this rule, since it features the manually- wound open worked Calibre 4400SQ. It took several hundreds of hours to achieve the perfect balance between airy aesthetic appeal and optimal functionality. The watchmakers and artisans of the Manufacture compounded the already impressive feat of removing almost half the material compared with the solid Calibre 4400 by addressing another challenge: that of transforming the new movement into an authentic three-dimensional architectural work expressing striking light and shadow effects. To achieve this, they have laid new milestones in the age-old art of hand engraving. Rather than using a bocfil or tiny handsaw to cut out the smooth surface of the mainplate and bridges before drawing them out with a file and chamfering them, the engraving artisans have carefully chased the parts around their entire circumference so as to create a true sculpture with its own volume and depth. Inspired by the ribbed vaults of late 19th century railway stations, they have meticulously applied their burins to creating delicate arches on the calibre in a fascinating architecture built around curves. These rounded shapes are a complete change from the straight lines of classic openworked movements, and imply an even more complex process of chamfering and hand-drawing. Amid a clever interlacing pattern of interior angles that only the human hand is capable of creating, the polished zones catch the light, while the matt finish of the hand-drawn surfaces further heighten the contrast with the radiance of the polished areas. The subtle alchemist’s blend of these hand-crafted finishes is further exalted by the relief effect of the engraved vaults in a process involving over three days of work for a single calibre and endowing it with unique character.

Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin


Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin

Mechanical, manual-winding
28.60 mm (12 ’’’ 1⁄2) diameter
2.80 mm thick
Approximately 65 hours power reserve
4Hz (28’800 vibrations/hour)
127 components
21 jewels

Hand-engraved openworked caliber on front and back 

Hours, minutes

18K white gold
40 mm diameter, 7.50 mm thick

Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Red Grand Feu opaque enamelled external ring Openworked Roman numerals on an 18K gold ring
“ONLY WATCH” openworked on the 18K gold ring, at 3 o’clock

Black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator leather inner shell, stitched-tip, large square scales

18K white gold buckle Half Maltese cross-shaped

Delivered with a magnifying glass

Unique piece for ONLY WATCH
“2015” and “N°1/1” engraved on the back of the timepiece 


Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Speake-Marin supports the Only Watch Association

As I personally feel that Only Watch speaks volumes for itself, I will simply be posting the press releases from the brands kind enough, charitable enough, with hearts big enough to support this -

Courtesy of Speake-Marin

Speake-Marin has the immense honour of announcing its participation in the sixth edition of the Only Watch charity auction to be held on November 7th in Geneva buy contributing a one-of-a-kind model: Resilience “One Art”.

Speake-Martin is extremely proud to be joining the Only Watch adventure and taking part in the charity auction for the first time by donating a unique timepiece for the event, Resilience “One Art”.
The entire proceeds raised from this sale will benefit the Monaco Association against Muscular Dystrophy to help finance research into the neuromuscular disease known as Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

For this sixth edition, Only Watch is bringing together 40 watchmaking manufactures, each of which is offering a unique watch model specially created for the event. Speake-Marin has decided to contribute a Resilience timepiece from the J-Class collection, vividly reflecting the brand DNA. Easily recognisable with its clean, crisp lines and characteristic design elements, this 38mm timepiece in red gold will be distinguished by a red gold seconds hand, a crown set with a sapphire and a unique personalised engraving adorning the Piccadilly case chosen to house the watch mechanism. 

Courtesy of Speake-Marin

The entire Maison Speake-Marin has been actively involved in ensuring that this project a perfectly finished unique watch unique of its kind is a success. The piece will be handed over to the Association and will accompany the international exhibition scheduled to travel the world this autumn: Monaco, Hong Kong, Beijing, New York, London and finally Geneva for the sale that will take place on November 7th

Tudor Black Bay for ONLY WATCH 2015

This just popped up in the "in box" and I have to dash to the office, but as it is exciting news about a good cause, I am going to give it to you in Tudor's own words -

Courtesy of Tudor


For its first participation in the Only Watch charity auction, TUDOR has decided to reinterpret one of the least known tool-watches in its history: reference 7923. Launched in the mid-1950s 
and produced in tiny quantities, this is the brand’s only divers’ watch to have been equipped with a hand-wound movement. It also stands out from the other divers’ watches produced by TUDOR with its baton-type hands. Highly sought after by collectors today, this rare reference was an excellent starting point for the creation of a one-off model destined for this unique initiative. 

TUDOR’s Heritage line is characterised by a unique creative process developed by the brand’s Style Workshop, as well as by an exceptional level of attention to detail. Since 2010 and the presentation of the Heritage Chrono model, some of the most important models of its history have been reinterpreted by TUDOR. The very opposite of a mere re-edition, the watches belonging to this Heritage line are the result of a true temporal and stylistic encounter between past, present and future. The aesthetic codes that contributed to the renown of the brand’s historical models are preserved and injected with modern touches to update their iconic status. This approach has become one of TUDOR’s hallmarks and the Heritage Black Bay model was notably rewarded in this regard by the “Revival” category prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2012. 

Courtesy of Tudor

The TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One created for Only Watch 2015 is part of this approach, reinterpreting the reference 7923 with enlightened freedom. It borrows the glossy black of the dial from the brand’s production in the late 1950s and early 1960s, while the inscriptions and gold-coloured hands (reproduced here in a shade of yellow gold) are derived from reference 7923 itself. The dial layout of the historical watch with its two lines of text at 6 o’clock has also been retained, specifying the maximum guaranteed immersion depth, in red, along with the mention “shock resisting” already present 

on reference 7923. Whereas the luminescent material was formerly painted directly on the dial, it is now laid in applied gold-coloured inserts ensuring improved definition. Finally, the dial of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One is domed, a subtle yet important detail for the experienced eye and representing another nod to mid-20th century watch design.

The sapphire crystal of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One is also domed in a particularly marked manner that is the most pronounced to date in TUDOR’s Heritage line. This characteristic is typical of the acrylic crystals used by the watch industry in the 1950s. The visual effect of a dial and crystal combination of this nature is truly striking, giving unique depth to the watch “face”. The latter is framed by the unidirectional rotatable bezel of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One, directly inspired by that of reference 7923, which does not provide minutes divisions.

Compared with the 37 mm case diameter of reference 7923, the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay One measures 41 mm, endowing the watch with a more contemporary presence on the wrist. Its taut, powerful and eminently modern lines nevertheless emulate the famous accentuated chamfers above the lugs, typical of 1950s TUDOR divers’ watches and highly appreciated by devotees of the brand. The prominent crown, with no protective shoulders in keeping with the overall lines of the model that inspired it, is mounted on an anodized aluminium tube the same colour as the bezel providing an additional touch of contemporary elegance.

Fitted with a solid stainless steel bracelet featuring tube-type attachments, a technical term used to describe a final link which does not come into contact with the case and an additional reference to the history of product development at TUDOR, the Black Bay One also comes with two additional and unique straps: a darky brown aged leather strap, a Jacquard-weave admiralty grey fabric strap. Traditionally woven in a century-old craft company in the French region of Saint-Etienne, the historical cradle of the passementerie (trimmings) industry, this fabric strap is yet another example of the added value that TUDOR brings to its creations.

In keeping with Only Watch spirit, only one of this new model will be produced, a first for TUDOR, which as a rule produces neither limited editions nor one-off pieces. 

41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish 
Unidirectional rotatable steel bezel, matt black disc

Self-winding mechanical movement, TUDOR calibre 2824

Power reserve of approximately 38 hours 

Screw-down winding crown in steel engraved with the TUDOR rose, with black anodized aluminum crown tube

Domed sapphire crystal

Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) BRACELET
Steel bracelet with tube-type attachments and folding clasp and safety catch
Two additional straps supplied with watch: one in darky brown aged leather and one in grey fabric; with buckle
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