Sunday, March 1, 2015

A Hat Trick for Nomos

Here's the scoop, straight from the source -


Three wins for NOMOS Glashütte in the public vote for the Goldene Unruh
Metro, Lambda deep blue, and Tangomat from NOMOS Glashütte are among the best and most beautiful watches in the world—and from the only brand in the public vote for the Goldene Unruh to win in three categories
Berlin/Glashütte, February 2015. As was revealed on Thursday evening in Munich, the NOMOS models Metro, Lambda deep blue, and Tangomat count among the best and most beautiful watches in the world. NOMOS Glashütte finished first three times and by far from all the other top brands in the vote for the Goldene Unruh: Metro was first placed in the category up to 5,000 euro, Lambda deep blue in the group up to 25,000 euro, and Tangomat as well in the up to 2,500 euro category. This is a premiere in the history of the seventeen-year-old public vote competition: No other brand came first place three times at once before.
“Design, design, and once again design,” explains Thomas Wanka, editor-in-chief of the renowned German Uhren-Magazin—that is the quintessence of the watchmaking company from Glashütte. “With its minimalistic, clear design, NOMOS Glashütte creates a very high level of brand recognition.” Another important reason is the extremely high amount of in-house production, which is, according to Wanka, “outstanding for a watchmaking company this size.”






NOMOS CEO Uwe Ahrendt, who was lately announced “Entrepreneur of the Year,” is stunned: “Three first wins at one go—that’s amazing. Watch aficionados obviously seem to like our combination of timeless design and best Glashütte craftsmanship. And the fact that we’re completely producing all our movements on-site in our Glashütte workshops—we’re the watchmaking company that always gives a hundred percent.”
The publications FocusFocus Online, and Uhren-Magazin organized the public vote, one of the most important in the watch industry, as they do every year. Since November, 20,846 readers had voted, 351 mechanical timepieces had been submitted in total. But 2015 has not only now started successfully for NOMOS Glashütte: Metro has already received the Good Design Award and the iF Product Design Award in the first weeks of the year.
Since 1998, the Goldene Unruh has been one of the most renowned awards in the German watch industry. Watches from NOMOS Glashütte have repeatedly impressed readers from Uhren-Magazin and Focus in past years—and have won a total of 24 times.
Watches from the brand have already been honored with more than 120 prizes and awards in the past. Uwe Ahrendt attributes this to all the hard work of the NOMOS employees: “Watchmakers and toolmakers, draftsmen, and the designers in Berlin: We have a fantastic team.”

The New C9 5 Day Automatic

This just in from Christopher Ward -

CHRISTOPHER WARD LAUNCH NEW C9 5 DAY AUTOMATIC – THE FIRST 40MM MODEL TO HOUSE CALIBRE SH21


Courtesy of Christopher Ward
Coming in 3 mm smaller than it's slightly older big brother, this is the 40 mm version of the C9 5 Day Automatic.

Available in three color versions.

Courtesy of Christopher Ward

Here are the details, straight from the source -

C9 5 Day (40mm) Features
  • In-house calibre SH21 automatic movement (100% Swiss Made) by Johannes Jahnke
  • COSC certified chronometer
  • Twin barrel construction in a series connection
  • 120 hour power reserve
  • 31 jewels
  • Date display at 3 o’clock
  • Full tungsten automatic rotor with ball bearings
  • Continuous central second
  • Stop-second hacking mechanism
  • Galvanic sun-ray one-piece metal dial with raised nickel indexes and nickel hands
  • Hand finished, surgical grade, stainless steel case and crown
  • Museum-grade sapphire crystal with AR08 anti-reflective coating
  • Screw-down transparent case back with full diameter AR08 anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Embossed alligator pattern Italian leather strap with Bader Deployment
  • Luxury presentation case and owner’s handbook
Courtesy of Christopher Ward
Technical
  • Diameter: 40mm
  • Height: 13.45mm
  • Calibre: SH21 automatic
  • Vibrations: 28.800 vph
  • Case: 316L stainless steel
  • Water resistance: 5 bar
  • Strap width: 20mm
  • Strap length: 110mm x 90mm

A "Smart Watch" that's Actually Smart

Okay pals and gals, there's been tons of talk about the "smart watch".  Some of it informed, some of it not so much.
Courtesy of Frederique Constant
This past Thursday evening, I had the opportunity to get a glimpse at a new platform for smart watches that just might have the opportunity to offer something that is actually, well, smart.



Courtesy of Frederique Constant
A little background - Peter Stas started thinking about creating a smart watch, and it was not really based on the "iPhone for the wrist".  He reached out to Philippe Kahn the CEO of Fullpower Technologies, who's "greatest hits" includes the invention of the camera phone.  In his "pitch" to Mr. Kahn, Mr. Stas set forth a very basic, very simple brief in terms of what would be wanted, needed and expected for this project.  The end result had to be a watch that:

1.  Had a minimum of 2+ years of batter life - just like current quartz watches.  The biggest challenge the raft of new smart watches faces is the need to re-charge the watch on a nightly basis.
2.  Could be termed as "Always on Time" - with the correct date as well to account for February and leap year, etc.
3.  Had a so-called "automatic cross timezone adjustment".  Meaning that just like your smart phone adjusts when you turn it on after landing in a new timezone, the watch would do the same thing.
4.  That it would not be chained to a single platform of smart phone - so this will work with both iOS and Android.
5.  That it offers a functionality that was referred to as "Quantified Self".  Now granted, this event did take place just across the bay from "The People's Republic of Berkeley", but this is not a new-age thing.  It is actually taking some of the most popular apps that people use in their daily lives to help promote better health.  The Quantified Self feature (at least in the pieces that were previewed) will monitor and track your sleep and evaluate it.  Think that sounds silly?  Well, you may think so but there are too many people out there using sleep analytic apps on their phones and tablets to dismiss it.  I personally would use this feature.  In addition it tracks physical activity not unlike a Fitbit.  
And I think we can all agree that this is an insanely popular item.  These are the first two pieces of "smart technology", and it is based on sane, rational market analysis.  If there are millions of Fitbits shipping as I write this, I think it is safe to say that this is technology that people want to have and presently use.
6.  A long term road map.  To paraphrase Mr. Stas's comments - we don't really know where the hell the future is going to take us, so it is important to establish a logical baseline, but then be ready to grow and evolve as the technology advances.
7.  "Eternal Beauty" - essentially to stay true to the traditional watch design, but one that can be updated and not need to be discarded after just a few years.
8.  Modular Electronics Always Updated - essentially that your MMT equipped smart watch will not become an ironic relic in a few years' time.  Much of the updating can take place virtually via cloud technology.  But also that the electronic components "under the hood" are modular, and therefore easily serviceable and replaceable.  Think that's no big deal?  Try getting your OMEGA watch serviced through OMEGA authorized service.  And that's just the time involved, think about those Texas Instruments watches from the 70s.  I had one of the first ones available.  It "lived" for about 2 weeks.  My father sent it for repair, and a brand new one was sent, which promptly died.  I have no idea what my grandfather paid for it, but suffice it to say that based on that experience my father stuck to his Mido.  Electronics and quartz technology have improved dramatically since those dark days.  But I couldn't help but think back upon that disappointing experience when Apple debuted their smart watch.  It is too much, more than you will ever use.  iWatch owners will not abandon their iPhone, or iPad for the watch.  But they will abandon their iWatch out of obsolescence.  But with the MMT platform, your beautiful timepiece will always be just that.  the "guts" will be the parts that if they become outdated will be replaced as part of a normal service interval.

Based upon these 8 requirements, a collaboration was born between Fullpower and what would come to be known as Union Horlogere Holdings began.  The result is the Manufacture Modules Technologies (MMT) platform.  And this is where it becomes interesting.  This is NOT an item just for Frederique Constant and Alpina.  It is a platform that will be made available to the watch making world at large.
Courtesy of Alpina
To that end both Frederique Constant and Alpina will be releasing watches with this technology.  In addition, the first "external"partner was announced - Mondaine.  Word around the campfire is that there will be more brand partnerships announced at BaselWorld.  


Courtesy of Alpina
Point of full disclosure - I am not a "tech" guy.  I still have a Filofax and always have a pen at the ready.  But I honestly feel that of all the smart watch ideas that have been floated so far, this one actually seems to be something that is practical and useful.  And the fact that this is intended to be a platform, it strips away the "one and done" problem that so many brands rushing to put out a smart watch will encounter.  I think that by making a "less is more" smart watch, Mr. Stas has reminded us of why he and Ms. Stas had so much success in breaking into the Swiss watch world where so many have failed before.   They picked an idea, they kept it simple, and they made sure it was adaptable.

For those of you out there crying foul, saying that this is a "bastardization" of a watch, consider some very salient points regarding the watch industry as a whole.  Per Mr. Stas's comments - there is currently a production annually of about 28 million watches.  60% of the world's total production takes place in Switzerland.  21 million of those watches are quartz.  So think about just that topic for a moment.  Despite what some dyed-in-the-wool, self-appointed experts will tell you - that it was mechanical watches that saved the Swiss industry, if we are being truly honest it was the SWATCH watch and the arrival of Mr. Hayek the Elder on the scene.  It was stripping away all of the many tiers and layers of the antiquated Swiss industry and simplifying it that saved the industry.  It was rationally adapting to the reality of quartz and learning to produce quartz pieces at competitive, rational prices that saved the industry.  

I personally do not think that mechanical watches will die, and I certainly don't believe that quartz watches will vanish.  And I would be less than forthcoming if I did not say that I think that the Apple Watch will be a player, but one that is tapping a completely different market.  The Apple Watch customer is not someone who will even care about these new MMT equipped watches.  That is the reality of the market place.

But I do think that in the same way that "team Stas" realized that there was an opportunity in the market for "affordable luxury", it seems that they have really looked into the smart watch market in a logical, pragmatic way and produced a smart watch that is actually SMART.

As with all new things, time will tell.

Here are the specs direct from Frederique Constant -

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT AND ALPINA
ANNOUNCE THE SWISS HOROLOGICAL SMARTWATCH,
POWERED BY MotionX®
The Horological Smartwatch: the bridge between Silicon Valley and the Swiss watch industry
Powered by MotionX®, the Swiss Horological Smartwatches are capable of bi-directional communication with iPhone and Android apps. The Swiss Horological Smartwatch is the synthesis of high-tech innovation and traditional Swiss watch craftsmanship; it is the link (no pun intended) between modern and classic, and the bridge between Silicon Valley and Switzerland. There is no digital screen on the Swiss Horological Smartwatch. Instead, the beautiful laser cut hands on the watch dial display information in analog form. The Swiss Horological Smartwatches retain their natural classic beauty and can deliver the benefits of the quantified self, all without ever having to recharge a battery.
The first Swiss Horological Smartwatches will support the following functionality:
- Always-on time & date
- MotionX® activity tracking
- Sleeptracker® sleep monitoring
- Sleep cycle alarms
- Get-Active alerts
- Adaptive coaching
- 2+ years battery life
- MotionX® cloud backup and restore

The beautiful Swiss watch that you love to wear that is now smart and connected, powered by MotionX®
The MotionX patented sensor-fusion engine tracks activity and sleep patterns with high accuracy. Activity and sleep information is presented in real-time on the Swiss Horological Smartwatch using beautiful traditional analog dials. The Swiss Horological Smartwatch synchronizes automatically with applications on Apple and Android smartphones. On the iOS and Android apps, simple and easy-to-understand graphics highlight how much one has moved and slept during the day, week, or month. This data will assist users to better understanding themselves, and along with appropriate goal setting and intelligent coaching, will improve their well being. Better sleep and a more active lifestyle are widely recognized as simple, but effective, positive behavioral changes. The Swiss Horological Smartwatch now combines the features and functionality of the MotionX® technology platform with a luxury timepiece.
MMT
MMT (Manufacture Modules Technologies Sàrl) is a new Swiss joint venture formed by Fullpower Technologies, Inc. of Silicon Valley and the owners of the Frederique Constant Group. Its mission is to bring the MotionX-365® Horological Smartwatch Open Platform to the Swiss watch industry. Fullpower creates and licenses the schematic design, firmware, smartphone applications, and cloud infrastructure to MMT. MMT manages the development and production of Swiss watch movements (also referred to as modules) incorporating Fullpower’s technology, and licenses, and provides support for, the MotionX-365® Horological Smartwatch Platform to the Swiss watch industry. MMT’s headquarters are in Geneva.
Peter Stas quote: “We love working with Philippe Kahn and his team, their approach to technology craftsmanship very much matches our company culture. Our intense collaboration and combined strengths have enabled us to realize the super exciting Swiss Horological Smartwatch today, and will lead to so much more that is still to come. The Swiss Horological Smartwatches released today truly show the strength of our partnership.”
Philippe Kahn quote: “We looked for innovative partners in the Swiss watch industry to collaborate with. Peter’s efforts to develop his own high caliber product were unprecedented, so we immediately clicked and went to work to help reinvent the Swiss watch industry.”
Frederique Constant and Alpina will launch 10+ different Horological Smartwatch models in 2015 in styles for both ladies and gentlemen.
MMT’s initial partners are Frederique Constant, the Geneva based luxury watch manufacturer of classical watches; and Alpina, the Swiss sports watch manufacturer founded in 1883. These leading brands will offer 10+ different models in designer collections for both ladies and gentlemen, powered by MMT’s MotionX® technology platform, delivering 24/7 MotionX® activity tracking and sleep monitoring, with over two years battery life, and compatible with Apple and Android smartphones worldwide. Swiss Horological Smartwatch in styles for both ladies and gentlemen will be available in stores worldwide starting in June 2015.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Revontulet - and the Quick Northern Fox

Hyvää huomenta everyone! Having spent four winters in Finland (2 in the "old capital" of Turku, and 2 in Helsinki) I can tell you that it takes a special person to find the magic and express it in a way that is understandable to the ulkomaalainen (foreigners) . Ladies and gentlemen, Stepan Sarpaneva is pretty special.  And it took something pretty special to create this latest offering from Sarpaneva - the Korona Northern Lights.
Courtesy of Sarpaneva
These three pieces are the latest from Stepan Sarpaneva and represent a truly unique collaboration with James Thompson of Black Badger.  The Korona Northern Lights come in 3 versions -

Green -

In the daytime...

Courtesy of Sarpaneva
And at night...

Courtesy of Sarpaneva

Violet -

In the daytime...

Courtesy of Sarpaneva
And at night...

Courtesy of Sarpaneva
And Blue...

In the daytime...

Courtesy of Sarpaneva
And at night...

Courtesy of Sarpaneva
In Finland the story goes that the Revontulet (Northern Lights) are created by the escapades of a frolicking naali (Arctic Fox).  As he/she is running around (as foxes are apt to do) his/her fur brushes the sides of the mountains creating sparks that fly into the night creating the northern lights.

Another version has the playful naali brushing the snow with its tail, sending the northern lights skyward.  I prefer both explanations to the scientific ones.
Courtesy of Sarpaneva
But it would seem that in this instance, it was not the naali, but rather the Black Badger himself helping to create this magic with his fantastic "Moonglow" composite.  But as he explains in his Notes from the workbench, Moonglow was only available in one color - green.  So Mr. Thompson did some research and discovered some additional possibilities.  I don't want to steal the Black Badger's thunder, so here is a link to his site so that you can read all about it straight from the source -

The case is 46 mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12 mm, has a sapphire crystal with multiple interior anti-reflective coatings, and will stay safe and dry to 10 ATM thanks to the Double secured water-resistant SARPANEVA screw-down crown.

The movement is a modified Soprod A10, which is self-winding and features a moon phase indication (29.5 days) that is the result of Stepan Sarpaneva's in-house complication.  It offers 42 hours of power reserve and is Rhodium plated with perlage finishing.

The dials are are DLC coated in green, violet or blue with Super-LumiNova indices, and as mentioned above were made possible thanks to the collaboration with James Thompson of Black Badger Advanced Composites.  The moon phases are of red or white gold.  The hands are also treated with Super-LumiNova.

I am really looking forward to seeing these in person at BaselWorld in a few weeks' time, but for now
here are the complete specs:

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Movement
• Modified Soprod A10 calibre, 11.5 lines, 28800 vph (4 Hz)
• Mechanical, automatic winding
• Phases of the moon (29.5 days), in-house complication
• 25 jewels
• 42-hour power reserve
• Rhodium-plated, perlage finishing
• DLC coated winding mass with 18K gold moon and masses

Case
• Stainless steel, 46 mm in diameter, 12 mm in thickness
• 1.5 mm thick curved sapphire crystal with multi anti-reflective coating inside
• Double secured water-resistant SARPANEVA screw-down crown
• Water-resistant to 10 ATM

Dial
• DLC coated blue, green or violet with Super-LumiNova indexes
• Luminous dials in collaboration with James Thompson of Black Badger Advanced Composites 
• Moon faces made of 18K red gold and 18K white gold
• Rhodium-plated hands with Super-LumiNova

Strap
• Leather in various colours, rubber
• Stainless steel buckle



Wednesday, February 25, 2015

The Motor Skull

From Romain Vollet -

Courtesy of Romain Vollet
42 mm of stainless steel surrounds what is referred to as a "Skeleton, self-winding movement".
Hours, minutes and seconds.

Just the thing for your next Day of the Dead get together ; )